Why Junk Food? |
In
a highly revealing new book out this month, Michael Moss, long time
reporter for the New York Times, tells of his four year investigation
into the policies and marketing campaigns of the largest food processing
companies during the last few decades.
In his book Salt, Sugar, Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us,
Pulitzer Prize Winner Moss tells chilling stories about industry
leaders who have no regard for the health effects of their products and
about former executives and scientists who tried to reign in the worst
of their products only to be rebuffed.
It is
clear that only when the market affects the bottom line does the
industry move. But even then, these companies design campaigns which get
the most dollars for the least amount of actual change in their
products or formulas, and often they find ways to use a health trend to
their advantage to sell more junk food under a more appealing name.
A long article in the New York Times Magazine by Moss included a number of stories about lunch food for school kids, the soda industry, the yogurt industry, and more.
The
bottom line is that advertising and packaging can be very misleading
and the ubiquitous messages can actually wear down even the most ad
resistant eater at times.
Most health experts
agree that the extra salt, sugar, and fat added to our foods is what's
ruining our health because these foods are addictive and the industry
spends many millions a year to find out how to increase our cravings for
them. These are responsible for much of our diabetes, heart disease,
and obesity as well as many other chronic problems.
I
have long pointed out to my nutrition clients and students that these
three factors are ideal preservatives. They have been used throughout
history to preserve foods. Traditionally, sugar and salt dry foods out
so that they are not attractive to microbes and are less likely to
spoil. Likewise fat conceals the food from microbes and tends to prevent
spoilage by exposure to air.
In the past, these
three were very expensive to obtain and use. They were rarely if ever
used with foods which were going to be eaten before they would spoil or
be contaminated. Solomon got rich from his salt mines. Much
later, Europe got rich from the sugar cane grown by slaves in the
Caribbean. Today, agribusiness farmers have become rich from chemical
extraction of oils from seed crops.
Now salt,
sugar, and fat are significantly overused because new forms have been
invented, especially for sugar and fat, so that they are cheap and last
virtually forever, mixed with various chemicals and preservatives in our
foods.
But why use them at all? Because they
taste good! We are programmed from millions of years of evolution to be
attracted to sweet, salty, and fatty foods because in nature these
occurred almost exclusively in highly nutritious foods. Honey, maple
syrup, and milk were the only sources of sugar not attached to high
fiber, slow digesting foods. Salt came only from mines. Fats were hard
to extract. Only butter, olives and a few very rich seeds yielded oils
which could be used for cooking or flavoring. Obtaining these
concentrated salts, sugars, and fats, were time and labor intensive.
In
the old days, salt, sugar, and fat flavors were a sign of a good food.
They did not appear in isolation as the main ingredient in the food.
Sugar usually meant a ripe fruit or a vegetable that was fully ripened
and ready to eat. Salty meant a food which was rich in minerals, like a
sea creature or sea vegetable or an herb. Fat meant a healthy nut or
seed or wild caught animal.
We no longer get
those healthy foods when we reach for a salty, sugary or fatty snack. We
just get the empty calories, along with the unnatural highly processed
sugars and fats, like high fructose corn syrup or hydrogenated soy oil.
But
why do the food processors continue to include so much of this stuff if
they know it is bad for us and if they have other more modern ways to
preserve foods, like refrigeration, drying, airless packaging, and
more?.
It's about flavor and addiction. First,
modern processed foods taste terrible all by themselves. "Like
cardboard" is what most folks say when they try to eat low salt low
sugar low fat foods which look like their junk food favorites. We have
become habituated to highly flavored foods, but the flavor is not coming
from whole, healthy, mature, natural foods. It's coming from salt,
sugar, and fat, and some amazing chemicals which replicate for our taste
palate the impression of the natural food. Strawberry or blueberry
flavor for example.
Food product manufacturers
make the cheapest product possible which the consumer will still want to
consume. The basic ingredients most likely taste terrible without the
added salt, sugar, or fat.
The second factor,
addiction, is about our body's craving for nourishing food. We are
getting the salt, sugar, and fat flavor which to our primitive brain
sensors means nutrition but we don't get the nutrition. So we keep
eating more of the stuff expecting to find the nourishment which just
isn't there. Also, recent research has shown that these foods can have
direct addictive affects on the brain's neurotransmitters, much like
nicotine or other addictive substances. It is sad to realize that the
food processors not only know this, they also build their campaigns
around it, based on the marketing reality that it is easier to get a
present customer to consume more than to attract a new customer.
But
we can make choices which avoid these addictive and tasteless foods. It
has been shown over and over again that when people avoid the excess
salt and sugar and fat, they don't miss it at all, as long as their need
for real food is being met.
People often wonder
at the "will power" of folks who stick mostly with home made, minimally
processed, and organic food. But there is no willpower involved. The
food tastes wonderful and meets the body's needs, so there are no
cravings for snacks or junk. The satisfaction of natural sweetness,
natural saltiness, and natural fats comes from real foods which your
brain and body can use and appreciate to build your health.
Randy Rolfe's Take Home Tips: As my colleague Alice Baland, author of Eat Up the Good Life
and eating disorders specialist, said just this morning, "Just ignore
the ads and attractive labels and ask yourself, when they tempt you, is
this really going to contribute to the healthy lifestyle I want to
live?"
And of course I want to recommend my own book, The True Secret to Weight Loss Is Energy. just
out in 2012. It encapsulates over 40 years of my personal experience
educating folks about how to attain and maintain health, healthy weight,
and vibrant energy.
|
Thursday, February 28, 2013
Why Junk Foods?
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